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Carters,

2c Wake Green Road, Moseley,

Birmingham

B13 9EZ

cartersofmoseley.co.uk

Telephone: 0121 449 8885

The suburb of Moseley is a very popular destination for drinkers and diners, but over the past few years it’s been overrun by middle-of-the-road curry houses, old-fashioned pubs and fast food establishments.

With the arrival of Carters, it seems that owners Brad and Holly are definitely trying to drag the rest of Moseley upmarket… and I hope they succeed.
My friend Katie and I decided to visit this small, independently run restaurant, which prides itself on offering the best of British dishes made with the best of British ingredients. Set back from the street, next to the pharmacy and near the launderette, it’s easy to miss, but proves to be a real gem when you discover it.
With just forty covers, Carters is small and the staff most welcoming. My starter of hand-dived scallops with braised squid and chorizo risotto (£16) was perfect. Katie, meanwhile, had the light caraway cured organic salmon, cooked with vodka (£8).
Both of us were indecisive when it came to choosing our mains. This was quite surprising, as the menu is fairly small, with a choice of just six starters and five mains; but then it would have to be for such a small restaurant with such high standards.
We started with a lovely bottle of Pinot Grigio Blush, and then I opted for the Cornish skate. It was unusually done - the fish wing off the bone, rolled into a cylinder shape and cooked slowly in a water bath. It came with pea puree, girolles - a type of Scottish mushroom - and some small cuts of chicken braised in truffle oil (£19).
Katie had the pollock, which came with a great selection of seashore vegetables. We were presented with a trio of underwater delights: the sea asparagus, samphire; a spinach-type vegetable called sea aster; and okajhiki, a land seaweed. Crab meat, Cornish Peers potatoes and brown shrimps also featured. Not cheap at £19 but satisfyingly unusual.
Whenever I look at a dessert menu, my head says no but my heart says yes, yes, yes!
Carters desserts are a charm. Unusual concoctions, beautifully plated, and tasting delightful. My toasted marshmallow with poached apples, custard, and apple pie ice cream was divine. Katie said her peanut butter parfait with chocolate sorbet & caramel sauce (£6) was bliss. Fortunately for me, she was happy to share!
Carters is a great little find. People of Moseley, please take note! And with a more reasonably priced Market Menu, it should attract a wide cross-section of food lovers.

Anita Champanari


4 Stars on Sat, 08 Oct 2011