Since first bursting onto Birmingham’s foodie scene back in October 2021 with the hotly-anticipated launch of the Grade II Listed Grand Hotel, this ultra-stylish basement brasserie has quickly earned itself a reputation as one of the city’s hottest new dining hang outs and it isn’t hard to see why.

Situated at the heart of Birmingham’s financial district of Colmore Row, just a ‘few blocks’ or more from near neighbours Temple Row and St George’s Square, Isaac’s effortlessly stylish interiors, highly affordable menu of New-York inspired favourites and chilled, cosmopolitan ambience are a world removed from the high glamour of its luxurious neighbour The Grand Hotel; complete with Madeleine Champagne bar, luxury Afternoon Tea service and grand ballroom to boot. But don’t be fooled by its graffiti-clad, streetwise exterior - Isaacs is as classy a joint as they come!

Of course, a bustling urban metropolis such as Birmingham (or New York) prides itself on being ahead of a trend. No surprise then that Isaacs recently launched a new menu of ‘Veganuary’ specials available throughout January 2022 and featuring a selection of crowd-pleasing plant-based dishes, designed to offer a ‘vegan-inspired’ twist on classic New York dining.

Whether tucking into a meat-free ‘dog’, a comforting dish of roasted butternut squash Mac ‘n’ cheese or a plant-based Korean style street snack, Isaac’s carefully considered menu of vegetarian and vegan twists on tried-and-tested street-food classics was not only delicious but highly affordable at a price of £14.50 for two courses, including a complimentary glass of wine, a beer or a soft drink as standard.

Settling into our stunning brasserie-style surroundings, my very own slice of the ‘Big Apple’ in Brum began with a cooling glass of prosecco and a warmer than warm welcome from our wonderfully attentive waiter Ruben, who was, in every respect, the epitome of American-style service with a smile.

Taking the time to enjoy our spacious and newly refurbished surroundings, the brightly-painted mosaic-tiled walls, art-deco inspired chandeliers, botanical flourishes and distressed ceiling panels captured the elegance and ambition of a turn-of-the-century city on the rise, whilst the French-style, green leather booths and photographic artworks of familiar cityscapes provided the perfect nod to 80s, New York street-chic.

Choosing from a small but perfectly-formed menu of plant-based dishes, even the most ardent of meat-eaters would be hard pressed not to love Isaac’s ‘Korean Spicy Fried ‘No’ Chicken. With a texture resembling the best chicken nugget you’re likely to taste, this ‘no chicken’ alternative to a South-Asian street-food staple was served with a side order of crunchy American-style slaw and a generous helping of signature ‘Hot and Spicy’ sauce, a recipe our waiter Ruben would be wise to take to his grave…given it’s worth returning for on its own!

For an all vegan-twist on a French-Canadian classic, the ‘Sweet Potato Poutine’ was an absolute hit. Combining sweet potato fries, dairy-free melted-cheese, plant-based gravy accompaniment and served with a fresh topping of crunchy spring onions, this magnificent marriage of sweet and savoury was the perfect mid-winter treat and the closest you’re ever likely to get to enjoying loaded fries ‘guilt free’.

The butternut squash mac ‘n’ cheese too, was the ideal choice of comfort food for a blue Saturday in January; served with a non-diary cheesy sauce and infused with smoky notes of paprika and crispy fried onion. Delicious!

And, of course, what trip state-side would be worth its salt without a taste of a traditional, New-York style ‘dog’ with all the trimmings. Granted, ‘dirty’ might not be the first word that springs to mind when making the move to a plant-based diet but to the sceptics out there, I guarantee you’re the ones missing out! Served with slow-braised, meat-free chilli topping, brown mustard and soft hot dog bun, this was New-York on a plate in every sense; unapologetic, uncompromising, packed full of great flavour and the ultimate fusion of old and new!

As a devoted chocoholic, I confess, the prospect of a plant-based dessert of dairy-free chocolate doughnuts, served with Vegan vanilla ice-cream and pretzel, wasn’t one I relished, on paper at least. But, as with all aspects of Isaac’s Veganuary menu, I should not have worried. The vegan-friendly chocolate sauce, if anything, was even more delicious than many of the diary alternatives I’m used to, as were the bite-sized miniature doughnuts, which were beautifully light in texture and offset perfectly by the dairy-free cream filling.

If a meat-free evening remains a step too far for some, Isaacs’ Lunch and Dinner menu includes an impressive repertoire of dishes to satisfy all tastes, from appetisers which include the New England Corn Chowder and Maryland Crab Cakes to 30-day aged Hereford Beef steaks, fresh Seafood platters and All-American ‘Heroes’ such as the Italian-inspired Veal Milanese with roasted tomato sauce, mozzarella, warm courgette & fennel salad vinaigrette (£16.00) and slow-cooked meatballs, fettucine, spiced tomato ragu and Parmesan (£16.00).

True, Isaacs might still feel like ‘new kids on the block’ in foodie terms but, when it comes to smart and stylish surroundings, warm and welcoming service and a menu which perfectly channels the multicultural spirit of a city that’s constantly on the move, this little corner of downtown Manhattan has surely found its spiritual home (from home) in Brum.

And when it comes to affordable plant-based alternatives with flare - if you can ‘fake it’ here, you surely ‘fake it’ anywhere!

Five stars. Reviewed by Kathryn Ewing, January 2022.