Wow factor. Tick. 360-degree views across Birmingham. Tick. Exceptional service. Tick.

So the question on everyone’s lips is: how’s the food? Answer: it’s generally very good.

Featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and located on the 24th floor of the monstrous 103 Colmore Row - a 108-metre-tall office skyscraper slap-bang in the middle of Birmingham city centre - Orelle (part of restaurant group D&D London’s collection) was one of 2022’s most anticipated openings.

To say it’s been popular since its launch in October would be an understatement. And to say it will remain popular indefinitely is a reasonable assumption. Orelle is impressive, and people like that. Especially the Instagram generation.

Firstly, let’s talk about ‘the views’. I will continue to champion Birmingham until the cows come home, but it’s no secret that it isn’t the prettiest of cities. There are some particularly gorgeous areas now -  Chamberlain Square being a highlight - but if one of the main pulls for you is an appealing view, then make an evening reservation. The darkness hides the not-so-nice aspects of the cityscape, and you’re basically looking out into a sea of lights and colours. That, combined with the restaurant backdrop of bold blues and oranges, makes for a pretty magnificent dining setting.

Now, on to the food. I’ll start by saying it wasn’t the nicest meal I’ve ever had but it was enjoyable. Very enjoyable, mostly.

Orelle states that its menu serves both classic and modern French dishes. You’ve got your terrine and tartare, but more of an emphasis on French cuisine would be welcomed. That aside, the menu reads very nicely.

I started with the tartare. A twist on the classic, the beef is topped with thinly sliced chestnut mushrooms and mushroom ketchup. The confit egg yolk was missing (although it didn’t dawn on me until half way through because I’d enjoyed a few beers by this point, having just visited the launch of Roxy Ballroom, a competitive gaming playground in Victoria Square). The beef was fresh, although a touch of salt would have elevated it further, and I was expecting more from the mushroom ketchup - the flavours weren’t all there. A feast for the eyes, certainly (all the dishes here are beautifully presented), but that richness from a creamy egg yolk would really have stepped it up a notch.

My partner chose the dressed crab with rainbow radish and tart green apple. The crab bisque really packed a punch - a taste of the sea at its best - yet still allowed the sweet, delicate crab meat to do the talking. Fresh and well balanced, it was the nicer of the two starters by some margin.

For mains there are seven dishes and two sharers from which to choose. The sharers are: venison and chicken ‘Wellington’ with beetroot, potato purée and a cocoa nib jus; and Côte de Boeuf with beef fat carrots, mac & cheese and a bone marrow crumb. As tempting as both sounded, I opted for the rack of Lake District lamb; my partner, the 65-day aged pork loin. The lamb was exceptional. Cooked to absolute perfection and served with a silky smooth celeriac purée, savoy cabbage, buttery Pommes Anna and a lamb jus, it was the highlight of the evening up to that point.

The pork was served with a high quality and extremely tasty black pudding, smoked almonds, grelot onion, plum and a moreish jus. Lots of sweetness there. I liked that. The meat was very slightly over, a fact we chose to ignore as the flavours were otherwise very good.

Orelle isn’t a cheap dining destination. Starters range from £15.50 to £19, mains from £21.50 to £48 and desserts cost a tenner. It’s more of a ‘special occasion’ destination for the majority. The manager told us that they’re starting to build a core group of regular customers. If you’re in business and looking to secure that big contract, then it’s certainly more impressive than arranging a high-powered meeting in your local Starbucks.

The desserts stole the show. My partner agreed, declaring the ‘brioche’ dish one of the nicest he’d ever eaten. It was certainly the nicest dish we ate that evening. That and the lamb. Order them both. There was no bread, just a deliciously creamy vanilla & white chocolate mousse spiked with a sweet brioche flavour, a biscuit crumb for additional texture, and a fantastic golden raisin puree. It was everything I want from a dessert. There’s some serious skill in that particular section of the kitchen.

The second dessert comprised a rich, dense, chocolate mousse, sweet caramelised banana crémeux, chocolate sponge and a salty-sweet caramel miso ice-cream. It tastes exactly how you’re imagining it does: wonderful!

You don’t have to dine at Orelle to experience the views. There’s live music in the bar every Thursday to Saturday evening, so why not book yourself a table, enjoy a cocktail or three, and take in those panoramic views of the UK’s second city? I regret not sampling any of the cocktails.

A Sunday lunch menu is available, as is a new cafe menu on the ground floor (which, decor wise, is equally as stunning). Enjoy the likes of steak & mushroom pie with mash or a croque monsieur. A more affordable option at two courses for £15 or three courses for £18, it’s available Monday to Saturday from midday to 3pm.

Will I go back? One day, for sure... I’ve got cocktails to sample. We had a great evening and left feeling both happy and content. My ‘Birmingham restaurant list’, however, is forever growing, and my main focus is to make a good dent in that before returning to Orelle.

Four stars
Reviewed by Lauren Foster

Orelle
103 Colmore Row
Birmingham
B3 3AG
Tel: 0121 716 8186