It's been a long time since I've eaten Chris Burt's food. Too long, in fact.

After a six-year break heading up kitchens elsewhere, the Momo-No-Ki cookbook author has returned ‘home’ to The Peach Tree as its reappointed executive head chef.

The Peach Tree, alongside sister venues Spirit and Havana, has recently welcomed new owners, The Shire Collection. Ready to stamp its mark on the town, the group is also new owners of The Boujee Lounge, located opposite Shrewsbury Train Station, and The Buttercross in Market Drayton...

On our arrival at the Abbey Foregate venue, my partner and I were met with Chris’ beaming smile. He told us that walking into The Peach Tree on his first day brought back many happy and joyful memories. It’s great to see him back where he belongs.

The Peach Tree menu is concise. I like that. It’s always better to offer a handful of great dishes than a multitude of average ones.

We started with Chris’ infamous Piggy Bits. Oh how I've missed those little delights. Some bits crispy, some bits fatty, every morsel is generously coated in a sweet Korean glaze. Served with crunchy cucumber, spring onion and sesame, a bowl of these is enough to turn a vegetarian. Well, the ones sitting on the fence anyway.

Arriving at the table next was one of the most impressive-looking ‘cocktails’ I've ever seen - the presentation here is spot on, and then some. Featuring a generous amount of rich oak smoked salmon, king prawns and crayfish atop a beautifully creamy Bloody Mary mayo, this is the dish to go for if you’re a fan of fruits of the sea. You’ve got the classic Baby Gem there, for crunch, and the addition of black and red caviar for bursts of salt. My favourite of the two starters.

Across the other side of the table were the tagine spiced crispy chicken wings served with a flavour-packed sabzi (think parsley, coriander, cumin), diced tomato for freshness and a smoky harissa dressing. The chicken itself was slightly over - it was lacking that juiciness you want from a wing. A minute or so less and it would have been perfect. The coating, however, was crispy, as promised, and nicely seasoned.

The best dish of the evening was the Scottish salmon with firecracker noodles. Full of comforting umami flavours, the fish was buttery soft - it quite literally melted away in the mouth - and the fatty, miso-lathered skin was so incredibly tasty that I’d return for that alone. I can’t actually remember eating a more enjoyable salmon fillet anywhere, in fact. I really love noodles. Put a noodle dish in front of me and I’m happy. Even the average ones. Fortunately, here, you’re getting an above-average one.

The Shropshire sirloin was nice too; of a good quality and cooked medium rare as requested (I’d usually order my steak rare, but we were sharing, so I went with my partner’s preference). It was served with the usual accompaniments: grilled tomato, mushroom, chunky chips and a moreish blue cheese sauce.

To finish, we ordered an assiette of desserts. Fantastic presentation here again. It comprised: pistachio & strawberry macaroons; mini lemon tarts; a rich but ever-so-tasty chocolate toffee ganache; mini strawberry & white chocolate meringues topped with strawberry pieces and a sharp apple sauce; and, my favourite element, ‘the mess’ -  sweet Chantilly cream topped with fresh raspberries and a raspberry sauce. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, book a table at The Peach Tree immediately to try it!

Old regulars will be pleased to know that the infamous caesar salad has made its way back on to the menu, as have the classics like fish & chips and Sunday roasts. Momo-No-Ki fans can rejoice too, as Chris will be running Momos nights in The Peach Tree every first Saturday of the month. Think ramen, sushi, curries, and of course, Piggy Bits!

Dog owners, there’s something new for you too, as The Peach Tree has launched Doggy Sundays. Why not treat your canine companion to a bowl of slow-braised Shropshire beef? Or chicken. Or even both!

Greens, gravy and a Yorkie pud also feature. And even better, every bowl purchased will see a donation to Hilbrae Rescue Kennels.

The Peach Tree is very much a part of Shrewsbury’s furniture, and it’s fantastic to see this much-loved restaurant back and thriving. Oh, and keep a close eye on its social channels, as The Shire Collection team has a few top-secret surprises to reveal in the coming weeks…

**** Lauren Foster