A Spanish cava bar is now open in Leamington. The way you enter changes every month... Find Spanish plates over a zinc counter, bespoke cocktails and a cava poured by no other bar in Britain, in the Midlands' first xampanyería.

You will hear Brut & Barrel before you see it: a cellar at 15 Dormer Place, Leamington Spa, with a staircase leading to a room with no chairs. The door is adorned with a brass B and no explanation. How you get in changes every month: a word, an object, a rule, none of it explained. Anyone can come - working out how is part of the evening.

Ross and Hannah Forshaw, a Leamington couple, are behind the newly opened venture. It is a xampanyería - the first in the Midlands - a Catalonian bar where cava is poured by the glass over a counter and you are expected to stand. The bar is also a counter restaurant and a speakeasy, in one room.

Down the stairs it is warm, loud and lit by low lamps. The walls are terracotta, the furniture is wall ledges, old barrels and high stools, and your eyes will need a moment.

Food comes over the counter: pintxos and small plates, among them flamed sobressada, beef tartare, manchego and smoked boquerones, with a sherry and saffron Basque cheesecake to finish. Eat it with one hand, because the other has a glass in it. Every dish is scientifically paired with a wine or a cocktail, should you ask.

Then there is the cava - made for Brut and Barrel by a Penedès estate, and poured by no other bar in Britain: a Brut, a Rosé and Malanit, a small-batch cuvée left 40 months on the lees. Prices are mid-range. It is meant to be drunk on a Wednesday.

Beside the cava sits a short natural wine list from small growers, with skin contact and orange wines next to the more familiar styles. The menu rotates, so regulars rarely get the same glass twice.

Brut & Barrel is now open, Wednesday to Sunday. To find out more - but not much more - visit brutandbarrel.co.uk